Before starting at Geni, Alan took some time off and traveled to Yunnan with friends JonMichael and Calvin. Here's the itinerary prepared by my friend Phuntsok Tashi at Forbidden Frontiers, with my comments in italics.
Day 1 Mar 23 Shanghai/ Kunming
Today we will take a flight MU5802 1155/1510 from Shanghai to Kunming. Upon your arrival at the Kunming airport, you will be brought to the hotel for freshen-up. Then we will go to a century old house restaurant for dinner close to the bird and flower market. Kunming is a relaxing city with year-round mild temperatures, and you can enjoy a good walk around the Green Lake, a scenic city park area lined with small shops and teahouses. Tianheng Hotel
Day 2 Mar 24 Kunming/Stone Forest
Today we will drive an hour to the Stone Forest, a magnificent geographic formation eighty kilometers away from Kunming. En route we will stop to one of the major flower markets of Kunming, even of China as 70% of the country’s flowers comes from Yunnan. In Stone Forest, the limestone towers of the karst topography create a maze of inspiring shapes. Legend has it the gods smashed a mountain to provide a labyrinth for lovers seeking privacy here. We also visit a village of the Sani people before returning to Kunming late afternoon. If time and energy permits, we will go to the Golden Temple, a tranquil Taoist architecture dating back to the Ming dynasty, and a lovely mountain retreat for locals. Have a meal at He Feng Xuan at northern side of Green Lake. Tianheng hotel
Pics 16 - 65. Missed the flower market. Stone Forest was one of the highlights of the trip. Golden Temple was ok. Chose our own restaurant from Lonely Planet guidebook: 1910. Best meal of the trip.
We will take a morning flight MU5987 0830/0915 to Dali. Dali is situated on a green sparkling plain, watered by 18 streams cascading down from the symmetrical 19 peaks of the Canshan Mountain Range on the shore of the ear-shaped Erhai Lake. But for its massive walls, it is hard to believe this charming, laid back city was the seat of the great Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms that eluded imperial control until the arrival of Kublai khan’s armies in the 13th century. This morning we will take a boat cruise on Erhai Lake, enjoying the wonderful scenery with its stunning mountain backdrop and beautiful islands. After lunch, we will drive north to Shaxi village, an ancient village with ancient connections with Tibetans. Shaxi was in important point for changing horses for the tea caravans headed to central Tibet. Here you will see the old stables and courtyards and homes reminiscent of the past. Because of its historical importance as the only surviving example of a Southern Silk Road trade center, the World Monuments Fund has listed Shaxi as one of the 100 most endangered sites in the world. Late afternoon we will continue driving 2 hours to Lijiang. Upon arrival we will be brought to the traditional courtyard house of PT’s architect friend. Xuan Ke’s Naxi Orchestra will follow your dinner at the old town. Afang’s House in Lijiang
Pics 66 - 93. This day was a disaster. Erhai Lake was completely forgettable but the boat ride made JMX and Alan horribly sea sick (Calvin was unaffected. This situation of Alan/JMX being sick with Calvin solid as a rock turned out to be true for the entire trip.) We had a dismissible lunch at a tourist trap street, but enjoyed playing cards in the beautiful weather. Then came the worst part - a 2 hour drive over windy, bumpy roads to the deserted town of Shaxi. The town is only remarkable because of its relevance to the pu-er tea, but we couldn't even find a tea house to try it!! We were shocked to find that we needed to travel 3.5 hours - 2 of which back over the windy, bumpy roads - to Lijang and there was no place for dinner in between. We finally arrived in Lijang around 10pm. The saving grace was Afang's house was awesome and Lijang Old Town is gorgeous.
Day 4 March 26 Lijiang
This morning we will take a walk in the guidance of our Naxi expert in the old Town of Lijiang, a World Heritage Site protected by UNESCO. It retains a great deal of Yuan, Ming and Qing period architecture. Lijiang is a township of pebbled paths, potted rhododendrons and whimsical architecture. Situated at the foot of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang is divided into two very distinctive sections: the Han administration and rustic charm of the Naxi part of the city that is often referred to as the "old city". After lunch at a restaurant with a great view of the old town, we will drive to Longquan Village (Dragon Spring Village), a local Naxi village dating back 500 years, retains a wonderful atmosphere of traditional Naxi village life, cobble lanes, stone and abode houses. Followed is a visit to Black Dragon Spring which was developed around some crystalline springs, the park houses the Dongba Research Center and the Dongba Museum of Naxi Culture. Afang’s House in Lijiang
Pics 94 - 142. The trip started looking up with a great breakfast at Afang's house (94-102). We really enjoyed walking around Lijang Old Town with our new guide Tenzin, who was quite a character. Alan got t-shirts made with the Naxi pictograph showing a mommy, daddy, and child holding hands under a roof - it means "happy family". We visited another temple, breezed through the Dongba Museum, and walked around the peaceful Black Dragon Springs park. We ate in a bar, drank beer and played cards.
Day 5 March 27 Lijiang/Gyalthang
Late this morning you will depart on a pleasant journey to Shigu (Stone Drum Village) to view the first bend in the Yangtse River (the Yangtse flows south from Tibet into Yunnan and then turns north again for approximately 60 miles) at Shigu. Continue to Shigu for a visit to the Red Army Memorial commemorating the crossing of the Red Army during the Long March in 1934-1935. After lunch, continue north on the Tibet Highway (which links northwest Yunnan to Lhasa, Tibet) and make one stop at the entrance of the Tiger Leaping Gorge before continuing north to Zhongdian (Gyalthang in Khampu Tibetan) seat of the Diqing Tibetan Autonomous County, just recently opened to the outside world. Late afternoon, arrive at the Gyalthang Dzong Hotel. The hotel is built in Tibetan dzong architectural style, a fusion of elegance and medieval fortress-like majesty. We will have Tibetan hotpot welcome dinner at the hotel. Gyalthang Dzong Hotel
Pics 144 - 172. We climbed a hill to take some good pics of the first bend of the Yangtze river. We posed on the wooden bridge crossed by the Red Army. Tiger Leaping Gorge was ok, but the water was low. We checked into the interesting Gyalthang Dzong Hotel. Shangri-La was a lot colder than we had expected. We skipped the hot pot, and ate in a restaurant in town by candlelight because of a power outage. More cards.
Day 6 Mar 28 Gyalthang
Today begins with sightseeing at the Sumsanling Monastery, the largest Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) Tibetan Buddhist Monastery in Yunnan province, dates back to the 15th century and once housed over 4,000 monks; since the Cultural Revolution it has rebuilt and is flourishing with some 700 monks in residence. After the tour of the monastery, meet with the living Buddha. Continue to Puda Tso Park for views of Bita Lake and the alpine forests on highland. It is also great spot for a short walk to observe great assortment of wildflowers (including azaleas, rhododendrons, wild roses and blue poppies, if you are lucky). This is where the Botanists from Royal Botanical Garden of Edinburgh recommended as the site for a regional Botanical garden. In the afternoon, we will drive to Re-Nga ( Dabaosi in Chinese ), the scared hill of 5 wisdom Buddha and most revered pilgrimages site for all Tibetans to make their pray offering ritual. Due to the sacred nature of the Re-Nga, many Tibetan believe that the deities here are endowed with power to granting them their wishes. That is why many animals are freed here from slaughter in a ritual offering called “Sue Thong” or giving life, which gains good merit and good Karma. We will visit a Tibetan family, enjoying warm butter tea, cheese and Tsampa (barley powder), which gives you a chance to truly understand the life of Khampa. Gyalthang Dzong Hotel
Pics 173 - 189. The Sumsanling Monastery is beautiful but it's really a new building built on top of the old monastery's location. The old monastery was destroyed in the Cultural Revolution. We got a ton of Buddhist training but did not meet the living Buddha. Unfortunately the flowers were not blooming yet, but the sky was blue and the air crisp. We stopped for lunch at the Banyan Tree - expensive but safe for JMX and Alan. We visited a Tibetan family's house and Calvin dared to eat everything, including the hand-mixed Tsampa. The evening ended fabulously with Tashi's friends where we listened to music best described as Tibetan Enya.
Day 7
Mar 29 Gyalthang/Kunming/Shanghai
After breakfast, we will be brought to Shangri-La Airport and take a flight
MU5932 0855/0955 to
Kunming.
From there take onward flight MU5811 1200/1450 to Shanghai. Trip ends.
Pics 190 - 194. Return home, playing cards the whole way. After hundreds of hands of a Big 2 like game, Alan ended up by 10 points, proving the game is mostly luck.
Overall trip was good to clear our minds (and perhaps cleared JMX and Alan's innards more than desired). The first 2 tour guides were quite inexperienced, making us think we should do more pre-planning next time. Also, I'd recommend going either in May/June to catch the flowers, or in September/October to catch the high waters at Tiger Leaping Gorge.